The Arroscia Valley in general
The Arroscia Valley in general
The spectacular conformation of the landscape, the healthy
air and the very comfortable hotels favour tourist activities
both in summer and in winter.
The altitude of
its inhabited centres varies along a scale ranging from the
118 m. of Ranzo Borgo to the 1263 m. of San Bernardo di Mendatica.
The valley, closed in by a wonderfully green frame
with ample olive groves and centuriesold woods of chestnut
and beech trees, is exceedingly inviting for the infinite
possibilities of walks in the invigorating fresh air that
smells of hay and lavender.
The site is fascinating
for the romantic melancholy it offers due to its nature,
which has been left intact, and the presence of people respectful
of the environment.
It attracts the tourist and
the holiday-maker for its climate, temperate and well-ventilated
during the summer months, dry and not too cold in winter,
for the exciting alpine ascents on Mongioje (2630 m.), Beltrand
(2481 m.) Saccarello (2200 m.) and Frontè (2153 m.), for
the beauty of its landscape, its art, its history, its good
cuisine and the traditional hospitality of its inhabitants.
It
is also a strong attraction for all those who appreciate
trout, mushrooms, good homemade bread, the products of local
pasturage, «Sciachetrà» and «Pigato», and for those who enjoy
winter sports, by going up to the ski runs of Monesi (1301
m.) the « white paradise of the Riviera of Flowers ».
It
can offer quiet and comfortable holiday centres in its quaint
little villages, in the silent valleys or bravely clinging
to rocky crests, among ancient castles that are a reminder
of far-off unknown times and old sanctuaries that invite
the soul to contemplation and prayer.
Following the course of the torrent upstream to Ranzo, a
road branches off across scattered villages and pretty little
villas, and reaches Aquila d'Arroscia dominated by the imposing
ruins of the XII century Castle of Aquila that stands impressively
on the opposite bank of the Pennavaira torrent, the keystone
of the defences of the Commune of Albenga in its battles
against the Clavesanas.
The Castle of Ranzo, now
a mere ruin, on the buttress where the valley turns slightly
towards the west, was in fact always a possession of the
Clavesanas.
 Ranzo: chiesa Romanica di S. Pantaleo |
Where the torrent narrows, dividing the lower valley, which
opens towards Albenga from the pleasant hollow of Borghetto
and Vessalico, almost at the foot of the castle at the edge
of the road, the church of San Pantaleo displays its austere
and superb elegance.
It is undoubtedly the most
ancient and characteristic monument of the whole valley and
has gained greater significance owing to the column of the
fourteenth century church, reduced to a single nave in the
sixteenth century, which stands like a milestone on the church
square.
The apse still remains to testify the existence of the proto-Romanesque
church of the XI century, while another apse of the same
build and symmetry has been added to the north in late Medieval
times.
On the ridge between the Carnareo and San
Giacomo streams, which flow down from Aquila, is Costa Bacelega,
the highest and prettiest hamlet of the Commune of Ranzo.
The borough is dominated by the old parish church
dedicated to Saint Bernard.
Next to it there
is the Oratory, no longer used for worship, owing to the
damages caused to it during the Partisan resistance.
Following
the road, we arrive at Borghetto d'Arroscia, a perfect «road-side
hamlet», which was called Borghetto dell'Acqua Torta (Crooked
water) up to the last century, because of a sudden turn that
the torrent Arroscia takes to the north, around the promontory
of Costarossa, and then returns to its original direction
towards the east.
This was one of the localities
of the valley that in 1232 joined with others to found Pieve
di Teco, as we shall see later. Not far from here is Vessalico,
another of the centres of the lower valley with many buildings
and portals of late Medieval times.
Its most
important monument is the church of S. Andrea of the XII
century, a little jewel hidden among woods and olive groves
and only a stone's throw from the village on the 45 way to
Lenzari.
Soon after crossing the bridge on the
Arroscia at the turn that the road makes at right angles,
is the Oratory of the Visitation, an architectural monument
of perfect harmony and sober elegance dated 1778.
Standing on a short terrace with the hills for background,
the little church with its polygonal plan has a particularly
picturesque setting.
 The gothic arcades of Pieve di Teco |
We now reach Pieve di Teco, the centre and main town of the
whole valley, and although the names of many of its villages
are pre-Roman Ligurian, non Roman remains have yet been found.
The castle of Teco which had been the stronghold
of the Clavesanas and was probably the site of a Byzantine
fortress conquered by the Longobards, remained efficient
until late Medieval times, whilst today only its name remains,
with just a few ruins to explore.
At the end of the valley where several important roads leading
to the sea converge (the «salt-ways» as these roads which
connected Piedmont to the Riviera were called in ancient
times) on the left bank of the Arroscia, is a borough built
in the XIII century and the reality-legend of its foundation
is recorded by a local chronicler.
The plan of
the town is very regular with a large street with arcades
in the centre, and a series of buildings and houses closed
in by the crossways that separate them (called «carruggi
») typical of the constructed areas of the Genoese region.
The parish church of Acquetico, a hamlet of Pieve
di Teco is also worth a visit for the elegance of it design.
This site was called Aiguevive until the end
of the VII century because of its abundant waters, which
make the l'and fertile and well-irrigated. At Nirasca, another
hamlet of Pieve di Teco in the vicinity, there is a Madonna
of the XV century by Pinturicchio's school.
The
valley, that turns to the west and descends towards Pieve
di Teco by the national route no. 28, is dominated on the
east by the Castle of Cartari, in a unique strategic position
according to Medieval values, acting as key to both the upper
and middle valley of the Arroscia. Its most important monument
is the church of S. Giorgio di Calderara, isolated from the
village and of Romanesque origin, although mostly rebuilt
in late Medieval times.
The valley is crossed
by an imposing viaduct that leads to the tunnel under Colle
S. Bartolomeo.
 The castle of Clavesana, in Rezzo |
The adjoining valley is the one of Giara di Rezzo, an affluent
of the Arroscia also called Puglia or Lavina, with Rezzo
at its head.
The village was originally grouped
around the castle that stands on high.
A road
branches off rising to the northern side of the Valley, which
has been terraced long ago by the local inhabitants to cultivate
the cereals needed for their subsistence.
This
has brought into existence small «plots» obtained between
the rocks, made with transported soil, which testifies the
hard work needed by man for his survival.
This branch of the road leads to Cenova, a small
rural village, once famous for its situation on one of the
most important «seaways», which passing through Prealbe joined
Oneglia to Piedmont.
The valley of the torrent Arogna, another affluent of the
Arroscia, flows from the north to Pieve di Teco, and at its
extremity there is the smallest commune of Italy: Armo, where
in the sixteenth century parish church dedicated to the Nativity
of Mary, there is a triptych on wood of the XV century.
The
principal branch of the Arroscia torrent rises from Pieve
di Teco towards its springs to Pornassio, Cosio, Mendatica
and Montegrosso, centres of great vitality, with grouped
constructions spread out on the hillside to the south.
The
upper Arroscia constitutes a forced passage between the higher
Monregale moor and the Riviera, and this is why in past centuries,
the rulers along the borders tried in every possible way
to gain concrete rights on the areas of transit, and especially
on Pornassio, a community spread out in various groups along
the hillside to the south of Colle di Nava.
This
village, an important centre on the «saltroad», which as
we have already mentioned, descended from the Prealbe Pass
and rose to Nava, has several archaic houses still partly
intact and partly rebuilt, leaving the quaint structures
as they were originally.
Nava is situated in
a large green bowl that looks out over the valley of the
Arroscia. A starting point for walks and excursions, it stands
at the centre of a system of fortifications of the Napoleonic
period, which include the so-called sentry forts that guard
the Pass and the fortress of Mount Escia.
Cosio
stands guard over the whole of the upper Arroscia basin.
The closely knit village has the shape of a long spindle,
with many picturesque alleys, and is dominated by the ancient
and elegant Romanesque bell tower with a pointed spire of
the XIII century.
Cosio d'Arroscia offers a splendid
view over the upper valley. It was the site of a powerful
feudal castle, now inexistent, which passed to the Lengueglias
towards the end of the XIV century, thereby becoming united
to the Republic of Genoa.
Spreading out on a
vast slope, with its typical alpine houses, Mendatica has
in its parish church of Saints Nazario and Celso another
example of a bell tower of the XIV century with its original
two-light mullioned windows brought back to life.
On
a narrow terrace on the wooded slopes of Mount Monega, in
a splendid panoramic position dominating the upper Arroscia
valley, is Montegrosso Pian Latte, with its archaic houses
held up by concealed arches it, maintains wholly the characteristic
of an ancient mountain village.